Mercury in skin lightening and skin care products purchased in New York City, 2009-2022

Abstract

Mercury, a toxic metal, is added to some cosmetic skin care products as a lightening agent, due to its ability to inhibit melanin production, and it has also been found in products intended for blemish removal, acne, and anti-aging. Skin lightening products containing mercury were first found in New York City (NYC) in 2005 as a result of NYC Health Department biomonitoring. We analyzed the mercury concentrations and product descriptions of skin lightening products collected from NYC stores between 2009 and 2022 as part of public health investigations. We described the results of store surveillance and product testing and characterized mercury-containing products. We conducted surveys of shops in NYC, focusing on those located in communities of color. We purchased and tested 197 products using the Manual Cold Vapor Technique for total mercury. Products were categorized by country of manufacture, type, intended use, and other label information. Descriptive statistical analyses were conducted. Mercury was detected in 29% ( n = 56) of products, and 18% ( n = 33) of products contained mercury above the U.S. Food and Drug Administration permissible limit of 1 part per million (ppm) for mercury in cosmetics. All products containing mercury were manufactured abroad. Eleven products had mercury concentrations above 10,000 ppm, with a maximum concentration of 27,000 ppm. Only 4% ( n = 7) of product labels listed mercury as an ingredient. Skin lightening products containing mercury were found for sale at NYC stores, reaffirming pre-existing concerns about mercury exposure for product users and their families. This exposure risk is a health equity and environmental justice issue rooted in colorism and racist beauty standards. Increased awareness of this issue among communities of color and health care providers; collaboration between governmental and nongovernmental partners; and stricter regulation, enforcement, and compliance structures are potential strategies to address this complex issue. Mercury was found in approximately one third of skin lightening products purchased and tested by the New York City Health Department between 2009 and 2022. Products containing mercury were all manufactured abroad and were marketed to lighten the skin, treat under eye circles, clear acne or blackheads, reduce aging and wrinkles, and remove spots, marks, blemishes or freckles. With mercury rarely listed as an ingredient, mercury concentrations thousands of times higher than regulatory limits in some products, and marketing towards women of color, these products pose an environmental health and health equity issue rooted in colorism and racist beauty standards.