Exploring the Role of Antioxidants in Skin Whitening and Brightening Products: A Comprehensive Updated Review of Ingredients, Mechanisms, Benefits, and Potential Risks

Abstract

There is a rapidly rising demand for cosmeceutical solutions of skin lightening/brightening, due to the growing need for dermatologic applications and consumers' preference to enhance the brightness of skin. Traditionally, the main ingredients for developing dermatological products were the potentially harmful and controversial hydroquinone compounds; however, in recent years, the research field experienced a transition towards safer antioxidant-based agents. The present review analyzes the application and use of antioxidants in modern cosmetics as an innovative approach, and the chemical and biological mechanisms of their functions that could revolutionize the industrial applications. The most effective ones include competitive inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme, pheomelanin switch through the help of glutathione, protection from reactive oxygen species (ROS) in order to inhibit UV-stimulated production of melanin, as well as prevention of the migration of melanosomes using niacinamide. The review identifies and analyzes several components used as ingredients, such as vitamins C, Niacinamide, vitamin E, licorice root, and other natural compounds, such as EGCG or resveratrol, among many more. In spite of their high efficiency, there are numerous problems associated with the instability, dermal irritation, and absorption of pure antioxidants. Therefore, various pharmaceutical methods to improve their properties, e.g., encapsulation and structural modification into tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, are analyzed. Finally, the legal framework developed by the FDA and EU, potential risks like pro-oxidation damage, and future perspectives such as personalized skincare via machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI) are discussed.